Carreg Cennen sits remote and high on top of a huge limestone crag, a site that was a craggy hilltop centuries earlier, rising up out of the Brecon Beacons in Carmarthenshire. A spectacular sight at sunset with the River Cennen running 100 metres below and into the distance, and though the climb to this historic castle is steep the views from the top are magnificent. The castle is situated within Brecon Beacons National Park and its remains are under the care of Cadw, the Welsh government historic environment service.
Who owns Carreg Cennen?
The castle has changed hands many times between Welsh and English rulers over its history. Today, the castle remains privately owned and is managed by the Llewellyn family in partnership with Cadw: Welsh Historic Monuments. Visitors can explore the castle’s interior, including the inner courtyard, outer ward, and the natural cave beneath the castle, all while enjoying the breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape
Within the crag is a deep limestone cave, thought to have served as a storage area and perhaps a water source during sieges.
The crag is thought to have been the site of a prehistoric hill fort in the Dark Ages and that there had been a Roman presence during their invasion of Britain since artefacts have been discovered in archaeological digs of the area. The site was a stronghold of the Welsh princes of Deheubarth. The castle’s first documented mention is in 1248, when Rhys Fychan’s mother, Matilda de Braose, granted it to the English to spite her son, though Rhys recaptured it before they could take possession.
Architectural Features
The architectural features of Carreg Cennen Castle are a testament to its rich history and strategic importance. The huge North East Tower, projecting into the outer ward, was perfectly positioned to fend off invaders. This interesting tower contained some basic luxuries, including a fireplace and latrines, making it a more comfortable place for its occupants.
The castle’s gatehouse, a critical defensive structure, was accessible only after traversing the barbican, which originally consisted of a series of bridges across deep pits. These bridges have since been replaced by immovable wooden ramps, but the pits remain treacherous. The castle’s primary water container was a clay-lined ditch just outside the gatehouse, supplemented by stone-lined cisterns that caught rainwater, ensuring a reliable drinking supply during sieges.
The castle’s defences
Carreg Cennen has some of the best defensive structures of any medieval castle. The North West Tower guards the most vulnerable side of the castle with its round design and three arrow slits, one of which was modified in the 15th century to take a musket, making it even more secure. The walls, built of stone and earth, drop away steeply from the castle and the outside world is rapidly left behind. The arrow slitted west wall and the plain south curtain are great examples of the castle’s defensive cleverness. The outer defences, the outer ward and the middle gate tower, were designed to withstand siege engines and all forms of attack.
Points of Interest
Carreg Cennen Castle has many points of interest. Despite much of the inside being in ruins many of the buildings are still visible, the Lord’s private apartments are at the far end of the eastern wing, the kitchen, hall and chapel are also in the eastern wing. One of the most unusual is the damp limestone cave under the castle which you can explore with a torch. The castle has great views of the surrounding countryside, the River Cennen and the Brecon Beacons National Park.
The castle site was granted to John Gifford who had impressed the king with his valour and effectiveness during the Welsh invasion, and the Welsh fortification was demolished in order to make way for the new stone castle. It’s thought that it was he who began building Carreg Cennen in about 1283-4. This was around the time of the massive building programme which began at this time in order to have strategic strongholds along the English border with Wales and around the country of Wales to gain complete control and bring Wales under the control of the English crown. There are remains of several buildings, including the formidable twin-towered gatehouse, in the castle’s inner ward.
Carreg Cennen Castle was besieged by Owain Glyndŵr during the Welsh Revolt around 1403. Carreg Cennen Castle proved to be a formidable vantage point and was virtually inaccessible because of its position and height. That being the case, it’s remarkable that in 1403 Owain Glyndwr’s armies unleashed an onslaught on the castle and managed not only to breach its defences but to cause considerable damage. Documents written in 1416 record the fact that Carreg Cennen had been almost completely destroyed.
Rebuilding took place over the next seven years under the control of Rhys ap Thomas, and Carreg Cennen changed hands many times over the next couple of hundred years, either falling into English hands or by being seized by Welsh raiding parties. The castle’s gatehouse served as its keep, providing refuge during an assault.
By the time of the Wars of the Roses, and following the battle of Mortimer’s Cross in 1461, the Lancastrians took shelter here. The House of Gruffudd were sympathetic to the House of Lancaster but by all accounts the Lancastrians won a reputation for savaging the area and became known for being bandits and thieves, running amok in the surrounding countryside. Their exploits came to an end in 1462, when the castle was surrendered to the Yorkists, who set about demolishing it with a team of 500 men to make it unfit for use as a stronghold. It has been a ruin ever since.
Carreg Cennen stayed derelict until the nineteenth century when Lord Cawdor attempted some restoration and rebuilding, and in the twentieth century Cadw (Welsh Historic Monuments) took over the administration and now looks after the castle and grounds. Carreg Cennen Castle is considered a historical site with a significant presence in Welsh folklore, claiming a legendary warrior sleeps beneath it.
Tickets and opening times are available from their website pages of Carreg Cennen Castle.